Naru
Naru jazz club, located near Ochanomizu station in Tokyo, Japan (website, map).
Naru is a classic Tokyo jazz bar that opened in 1969 and has been operating for more than 50 years in the Ochanomizu district. Also going by Ochanomizu Naru or Ocha Naru, this is the sister location to the original Yoyogi Naru location established in 1966. With its renowned history, reputation, and level of excellence, Naru is a mainstay, a magnet for jazz in Japan’s capital city.
Being such a fine jazz bar, Naru is worthy of more than just a single visit. For many, Naru is their go-to spot for quality jazz and drinks or dinner. The club’s popularity is no doubt a combination of its legacy in the Tokyo jazz scene, as well as the high bar set by the business to meet the audience’s and musicians’ expectations for high-quality jazz (receiving and creating, respectively). With those expectations, the audiences know they are in for a treat at Naru, where the focus is on keeping the music and the atmosphere consistently satisfying.
As such, Naru is professionally run with high standards, and though the well-mannered staff does not impose an overly strict environment, enough attention is paid to ensure that things are running smoothly.
This Ochanomizu Naru location features instrumental jazz musicians on most nights, such as a group formed by a saxophonist or horn player leading a piano, bass, and drums rhythm section. There are variations of course, but jazz quartets and trios are not uncommon to encounter on any given night at Naru. These include regularly-scheduled groups such as Mabumi Yamaguchi’s quartet and the long-running band Encounter who fill Naru with their thrilling, high-powered sound.
Boosting their reputation as a place for serious jazz, live performances at Naru in the past included such famous musicians as McCoy Tyner, Mal Waldron, Wynton Marsalis, Jimmy Cobb, Yosuke Yamashita, Yuji Ohno, and Mabumi Yamaguchi. Special events like jazz jam sessions, record releases, themed celebrations, and up-and-coming musician spotlights are also held on occasion.
The room’s layout is a simple square filled with comfortable booths and tables, a slightly raised row of seats behind a narrow bar in the back—watch out for the slight step down between the entrance and the main seating area. A curved row of seats, a sort of front-row section, is set against a small bar connected to the edge of the grand piano. These piano bar seats are in front of most of the audience and may make some customers feel self-conscious, but they do provide an immersive, close-up position right next to the performing musicians.
The live sound is great and the food is also above average (note that the menu has changed in recent years and may be significantly different from past menus). Compared to a budget jazz bar, the menu prices at Naru may seem slightly higher than average, but definitely not outrageously so. Compared to other jazz bars in their class, Naru delivers a lot for a quite reasonable price and is a great deal for catching live jazz. Their cover charge is still a real bargain, comparatively.
Like some other jazz clubs, taking photographs during performances is a faux pas at Naru. Although some customers can get away with a few snaps, the staff may ask customers to refrain—especially if it is a distraction to the musicians or other customers. The emphasis at Naru is on listening and taking in the performance without having the mood broken. Similarly, as an example, when a group of after-work business folks gets too lively or loud during the music, that group may be politely asked to moderate their volume to avoid annoying other customers. Don’t worry though, the breaks between sets allow for plenty of time for customers to talk with friends, have spirited discussions, and order more drinks.
While at Naru, you may also notice the manager Hiro-san, a tall, besuited man who is a fan of American football. He can usually be found by the back bar taking care of business here and keeping everything running smoothly (admirably taking after his mother Misako-san, who takes care of things at Naru’s other location in Yoyogi).
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Jazz of Japan to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.